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Brand lineups

Most affordable automatics share a few movement families. Knowing who makes the movement tells you more about accuracy, service and parts than the name on the dial.

Common movement makers
Seiko (TMI), Miyota (Citizen), ETA and Sellita
Swatch Group brands
Tissot, Hamilton, Certina, Mido

Seiko and its parts arm TMI make the 4R and NH movements found in Seiko 5 Sports, many Seiko Prospex divers and a large share of small independent brands. Orient, part of Seiko Epson, makes its own automatics. Citizen owns Miyota, whose 8 and 9 series power many affordable watches, and Bulova has belonged to Citizen since 2008.

Tissot, Hamilton, Certina and Mido belong to the Swatch Group and use movements from its ETA factory, many of them versions of the Powermatic 80 or the H-10 with a power reserve of about 80 hours. Other Swiss value brands buy from Sellita, whose SW200 is closely based on the ETA 2824.

Within one brand, a model name can hide big differences: case finishing, crystal (mineral, Hardlex or sapphire), bracelet quality, and whether the movement hacks and hand-winds. Compare those first, then price.

Top view of a watch with case diameter, lug to lug, lug width and crown labeledlug widthlug to lugcase diametercrownSide view of a watch case with case thickness labeledcase thicknesscrystalbezelcasebacklug
The five numbers on a spec sheet. Lug to lug and thickness decide how a watch wears more than case diameter does.

Common mistakes

  • Paying extra for a name when the same movement sits in a cheaper watch.
  • Assuming every model in a lineup has a sapphire crystal.
  • Overlooking service and parts access for a brand with little US presence.

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